The Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda in Yangon measures a staggering 65m long, the soles of the reclining statues feet bear the distinguished marks of a Buddha.
Myanmar (Burma) may be a third world country but if wealth were measured by culture, kindness and tradition, it would be among the world’s richest nations.
Although not as popular as its Southeast Asian neighbours, the Golden Land has plenty to offer.
I doubt, for instance, that you would see as many pagodas anywhere else in the world. Even in the poorest village in Myanmar, beautiful pagodas and Buddha statutes covered in gold leaf are a common sight. And no matter which hill you find yourself on, in whichever state, you will find the horizon dotted with stupas, reaching for the heavens.
Travelling here is safe, and the people are helpful, especially in the outskirts. The only hassle may be the currency. The US dollar is the currency of choice, but your notes must be crisp and without markings. According to a local guide, the banks are extremely particular about this and will not accept folded, scribbled or shabby notes.
As such, many traders only accept new American dollars or the kyat. If you fancy a place that offers an intoxicating mix of religion, history and shopping, just pack up and say, “Mingalabar Myanmar!” It’s an auspicious local greeting that’s sure to make you some new friends.
Yangon
The gateway to Myanmar and the nation’s capital, Yangon, is a thriving city laden with gilded pagodas. Though none is as beautiful as the most sacred Shwedagon Pagoda, every pagoda is unique if you take the trouble to explore them.
Locals say Shwedagon was constructed nearly 2,500 years ago to house eight sacred strands of the Buddha’s hair. Adorned with tonnes of gold and precious jewels, the pagoda is synonymous with Myanmar and stands magnificently at more than 100m tall.
A cabbie informed me that a “no fly zone” had been enforced above and around the temple!
Within the city, there’s the relatively more modest Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda. The reclining Buddha here measures a staggering 65m, and has the story of the Buddha’s life inscribed on the soles of its feet. Meanwhile, at the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda, a towering marble Buddha sits at its heart. Made from a single block of green marble found in Mandalay, the statue was carried along the Irrawady River to Yangon by some 10,000 men!
Unfortunately, I had to give the Kyaik-tiyo or Golden Rock Pagoda a miss. Built on a massive boulder that sits precariously on the edge of a cliff, it is a marvel that attracts many a tourist and devotee. The 10km climb up to 1,000m in altitude just got too slippery for us, no thanks to heavy showers.
Shopping in Yangon can turn into a real spree. From exquisite jades and rubies to colourful paintings by street artists, Yangon offers a treasure trove of goodies for the shopper.
Mandalay, Amarapura, Mingun
Mandalay, Myanmar’s second largest city, home to the Burmese kings for centuries, sits on the banks of the Irrawaddy with Mandalay Hill as its landmark. From up the hill, many Buddha statues cast their watchful gaze upon this city dotted with hundreds of pagodas of every height and size.
Mandalay is home to the Kuthodaw Pagoda, a temple surrounded by 729 inscribed slabs, each with its own stupa. It’s no wonder Kuthodaw is known as the “world’s largest book”.
Though the title of state capital belongs to Yangon, Mandalay remains Myanmar’s cultural centre. Generations of artisans have thrived here. Its streets are lined with hundreds of craftsmen, all deftly going about their work, seemingly oblivious to admiring stares, making wooden puppets and wonderful silk tapestries, marble carvings and bronze castings of the Buddha.
However, the most memorable place in this area may be U Bein Bridge in Amarapura, some 11km south of Mandalay. It’s a picture-perfect scenery that no photograph can possibly do justice to. The world’s longest teak wood bridge, U Bein spans some 1.2km and is quite a sight to behold at dusk.
If you take a boat and gaze up at it with the sun setting in the background, the bridge is just so majestic and imposing. Some 200 years old, the bridge is a testament to the richness of Myanmar’s culture.
Monks in deep maroon robes (a sweet pink shade for the nuns) are a common sight in this predominantly Buddhist nation, but the Mahagandhayon Monastery founded in 1914 is where you’ll find the greatest concentration of Buddhist clergy. Like a sprawling township, the monastery houses more than 3,000 monks, who live and study here.
Armed with cameras of every size, curious visitors come in hordes. Every day, these visitors wait patiently for the monks to queue up for their meals for a good snapshot. The monks seem used to the attention but one senses flashes of annoyance, especially among the older boys. Yes, paparazzi tourists like yours truly can be a pain, but the younger boys seem to enjoy living life in a proverbial fish bowl.
They often make funny faces for the camera.
Upriver from Mandalay is Mingun – ancient and unperturbed by development, boasting tourist-friendly villagers. A relaxing, 45-minute boat ride will get you there, but do remember to slap on some local sunblock, or thanaka (a yellowish paste made from the bark of a tree), to protect yourself from the fierce tropical sun.
Here, bullock carts (with the words ‘taxi’ painted on) and local guides will happily take you around. The younger generation speak English. Again, pagodas are a big attraction. The cracked and unfinished Mingun Paya is undoubtedly among the most amazing pagodas in Myanmar. The Mingun Paya steps (there are railings to hold on to) and the size of the building is awe-inspiring. If completed, the stupa would have been the tallest in the world at 150m.
The place was envisioned by King Bodawpaya, who also commissioned a gigantic 90-tonne bell to go with it. Unfortunately, he died before his dream could be realised.
Like Italy, Myanmar too has its own leaning tower – the 30m-high Nan Myint Watch Tower. Built in 1822, the original structure paid homage to Myanmar’s architectural style of the early 19th century but was badly damaged in an earthquake.
Bagan
Beyond a doubt, the country’s 11th century capital, famously dubbed the City of Four Million Pagodas, is one of the most amazing destinations in South-East Asia, rivalled only by the great Angkor Wat.
There are only some 2,000 pagodas in Bagan, and they date back to more than 1,500 years. While Father Time has been kind enough to leave most of the structures intact, Mother Nature threatened to wipe out these amazing temples, pagodas and stupas during a devastating earthquake that took place in 1975.
More than half were damaged, and many were destroyed. Through careful restoration, however, the reddish-brown pagodas of Bagan regained much of their glory by the 80s. For a great vantage point from which to watch the sun disappear behind the stupas, you can make your way up the steep Shwesandaw Pagoda steps.
It’s worth the effort and panic attack!
The Dhammayangyi, Thatbyinnyu (the former being the biggest and the latter the tallest), Ananda and Shwezigon pagodas are must-visits. Indulge also in a sunset boat-ride along the Irrawady River for a magnificent light show where hues of vermillion and blue swirl together on a stage of fluffy cotton clouds every evening.
Shan State
The Shan highlands, south-east of Mandalay, is synonymous with the breathtaking Inle Lake, a bowl of crystal-clear water held in place by the giant hands of an age-old mountain.
Step out of the Heho Airport, and your senses are quickly awakened by the crisp, misty countryside air. On the day I arrive, the morning Shan market happens to be at Heho. What a treat. The morning market is held once every five days, with the traders moving like clock-work through various towns and villages according to schedule.
The one constant thing about the Shan morning market is that it’s always one big party! Here, the various tribes come together, each bearing their wares and delicacies – from barbecued fish that look like baby snakes on skewers, to poultry that look like they’ve been on a steroid diet (seriously, the chickens are as huge as turkeys). The rosy-cheek tribeswomen come in their traditional wear and colourful headgear, adding to the market’s exotic allure.
Here, you’ll find more of the local food produce than souvenir. English is not widely spoken, but there are warm smiles all around for the cameras. The morning market is certainly a great place to sample street food.
From here, a car-ride to the Inle Lake takes about an hour. Hotels for every budget dot the banks. Hop into a boat, and you are literally on your way to where the heavens blend seemlessly with the lake. Like a huge mirror, the lake reflects the surrounding hills and bright blue skies in the most mystical way.
The lake is famed for its acrobat-fishermen who row the little sampan by wrapping one leg around the oar. At the heart of the waterway are the villages of the Intha people, who live alongside tribes like the Shan, Taungyo, Pa-O, Danu, Kayah, Danaw and Bamar. Mainly farmers, they live in humble bamboo and wood huts perched on stilts in shallow waters.
The floating market makes for an interesting stop but don’t lose your footing because it could turn into a very soggy affair. There are many workshops producing handicraft. For a less materialistic pursuit, you might want to visit the floating Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda and Nga Phe Kyaung (Jumping Cat Monastery).
Watching the poor villagers make gold leaf offerings to the five Buddhas at Phaung Daw Oo in an act of worship is a humbling experience. The temple celebrates an annual festival at the end of September when the five Buddhas are taken on a procession around the lake.
Meanwhile, inside the wooden monastery, you’ll see cats trained to jump through hoops – for a little treat ,of course! There are no official showtimes and no need for tickets, but a small donation to feed the agile felines is always appreciated.