Inle Lake was to be our farewell to Burma. Having visited its capital Ranoon, revelled in the architectural splendour of Bagan and the historical wistfulness of Mandalay, we chose to wind down with a couple of do-nothing, isolated lakeside days. Isolation was most certainly guaranteed — there were just five passengers on the flight to Heho, the point from which the journey to the lake begins.
As the aircraft set out for Rangoon, leaving us bag and baggage near a taxi-stand to find our way, I thought with amusement how very like a bus ride our flight had been. A friendly taxi-driver sauntered up to us and settling his fare at $10 for the one-hour drive, took us on a guided-tour. He kept up an incessant chatter in a lively mix of Hindi and English, as he explained to us the various sights. Before long, he deposited us on the lake's northern front, promising to return a day later to drive us back to civilisation. From here, we were borne away by boat to our final destination. Inle Lake is about 22 km long and half as wide at its widest point. Our hotel was located a long way off on the eastern bank. The lake's hilly surroundings impart a calm beauty that contrasts with the buzz of activity coming from the stilt houses on the banks. The calm waters too were abuzz with brisk activity; canoes drifted about hauling in water hyacinth. On arriving, music and song greeted us, courtesy the hotel staff. Chinese tea and cold towels were offered to us as we were led to our cottage. Easy chairs, Mandalay beer, a veranda looking out on the lake — what more could one ask for? The combined effect of all three, plus the gentle lap of waters below us, soon drew the veil of sleep over our eyes.
Afternoon brought with it a torrential cloudburst, but the downpour stopped as suddenly as it had begun. We set out in a boat, and almost immediately branched out into a narrow canal, encountering the sight of a floating village. In a solid medium of waterweeds and soil held miraculously together on the water, and staked by bamboo to the bottom of the lake, an incredible variety of vegetables and fruits were being grown. Every building in this watery vicinity was on stilts — the village school, the monastery, all kinds of shops, including the barber's, in full business.
These villages are mostly populated by the Inthas, migrants into the area, who are different from the Shans who populate the rest of the State. We found them hard at work, tending to boats bearing agricultural produce to the market; fishermen with their cone-shaped nets prepared for the day's work.
We were soon at Ywama on the opposite bank. Famed for its floating market held five days in a week, this village is a busy hub. At one home, we saw how decorative umbrella cloth was made and also feasted our eyes on the attractive array of lacquer and silver jewellery for sale. On the market day, the entire canal is lined with boats peddling their wares. Buyers approach, also in boats, and the transactions are carried out from boat to boat. The whole affair is colourful and unique. During our visit, the market for the day had concluded, but there were still remnants of the bustle gone before, and some of the sellers pursued us relentlessly.As we negotiated our way through the network of canals, there were other quaint sights too. The leg-rowers were one such who piqued our curiosity — they stand on the stern of the boat and, balancing themselves on one leg, row with the other, so that their arms are free for work. This style of rowing is also useful in that it helps them intercept obstacles in their path. Perhaps it is also an ingenious method of exercising limbs that have no roads to walk on!
It was interesting to see that much of the business was conducted by women — their slight frames with designs of tanaka paste on their foreheads and cheeks, were a pleasant sight. Was this that kept their skins so soft-looking and blemish free, one wondered.
Dusk brought with it soothing shadows and contentment. As the only residents of the hotel for the evening, we had the undivided attention of the solicitous staff. Dinner was a homely affair — each of the staff could play any role — after which we were entertained with music and dance. Every item on the menu was daintily presented.
As the evening progressed, we learnt that the hotel was a co-operative run by the White Pa-Os, once insurgents but now at peace with the government. We were awakened the next morning by a variety of bird sounds, and found to our surprise that not far from our cottage was a bird sanctuary of sorts. Waterfowl and egret populated the forest in large numbers, perching on trees and huddling together on the water. The tranquil and soothing sounds of Nature stayed with us and reminded us of her bounty, long after we could hear or see them no more.
Fact file
How to get there: Daily flights (Yangon Airways/Air Mandalay) are available from Yangon/Mandalay/Bagan to Heho. Online booking is also possible.
Where to stay: Golden Cottages charge $45 for a double bedroom. Online booking is advisable.
When to visit: October to March is the best time as the weather is pleasant.